ayyy tiempo!

So I really have been trying to keep up with this darned thing... but I just realized I went to Mendoza 3 weeks ago... yikes!

So some highlights in the meantime include

• writing lots of papers.. but finally being done with classes!
• visiting Montevideo, Uruguay...never thought I´d head over there... but it was nice! Definitely a good place to go in the summer... pretty beaches, amusement parks, ferias, a great hostel, good sandwiches called chivitos, visiting the old sites of Montevideo
• visiting Colonia, Uruguay... a quaint little historic town across from Buenos Aires... fun little day trip!
• being sick... not so much fun being sick, alone, and in the city. but alas I´m over it!
• Indian food in Buenos Aires.... ahh the Argentines simply don´t flavor their food. It was such a breath of fresh air to actually TASTE for once!
• the Madres in the Plaza de Mayo. Every Thursday they replicate their original protest. Very cool to witness.
  
• preparation for Patagonia! Once we finished classes on Friday, we headed home then to the bus station for our 20 hour bus ride! More adventures to come!
  

Mendoza

So I’ve made the resolution to make a blog update every week, but my past weekend merits a post just for itself: Mendoza!

After a long night on Thursday, the calming bus ride was extremely welcome—I slept nearly the entire way! We arrived in Mendoza around 10 AM on Saturday and set out to find my friend Aaron’s flat. After getting settled, we explored the town—walked through many plazas, shopped amidst some “fake” vendors, visited the museo de arte moderno, and walked through a beautiful park. We then were treated to a private room and instructor for a wine-tasting, joined many others from Aaron’s study abroad program for a dinner, then head out on the town.

We awoke the next morning an hour after we had gone to bed to take a bus tour through the Andes. Again, one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen! The snow covered every inch and came up to our knees as we played clad in our newly-rented ski suits (or should I say marshmallow suits). We returned to eat at a hotel that Brad Pitt stayed in as he filmed Seven Years in Tibet and were extremely tired after having received such little sleep. As Anna and I walked the streets to find some pizza “para llevar” (take out), we stumbled into a little kiosco (7-11-esque store) filled with stuffed animals- literally. A kiosco dedicated to taxidermy. Interesting. And very Argentina.

The next day we went on a “wine and bike” adventure. One would rarely pictures these things combined- but again, only in Argentina. We visited a wine museum, chocolate & liquor producer, and 2 wineries. Each had a different charm—either antique, new, or just quaint. Needless to say, the wine flowed abundantly, leaving us beyond ability to bike ourselves back home (!!!). We departed from Mendoza not wanting to leave and just wishing for a few more days!

And oh what a fun 21st birthday it was! Rather chill, but decidedly fun. We first met at a local Mexican restaurant for margaritas and quesadillas then made our way over to one of the most fun bars I’ve ever been to—there were board games galore, colors to tease the senses, and much sangria to abound. It was a huge success!

Some highlights from the week:

· Visit to the Museo de Bellas Artes—a collection of European (Degas, Monet, Renault), modern (Pollack, Kandinsky), Latin American (Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera), and many Argentine artists. There was also en exceptional Korean exhibit of photography and media art—very cool takes on Korean nationalism and their views of America.

· A rally in the Plaza de Mayo for Cristina Kirchner. Farmers have been rioting against “unfair” taxes and forcing authorities to close certain roads (which in turn prevents certain forms of transportation from traveling…). Finally, Cristina called for a united front- and let me tell you, it was united. I’ve never seen so many banners, flags, and rioting people in a plaza. See “Evita” if you need an image.

· Watching the Brazil vs. Argentina game at a local bar—or I could just say watching the locals cheer on their national team.

· Sitting and writing a paper on the stage of a theater-turned bookstore called Ataneo

· Visit to the MALBA (Museo of Arte Latinamericano de Buenos Aires) featuring Frida Kahlo, Emilio Pettoruti, and others)- the building itself is a marvel

· Boliches, some more late nights

· More schoolwork than usual (I guess they have to make us learn stuff at some point…)

I must admit that I superbly missed family and friends on my birthday—I think this was my first without my mother! Feelings of homesickness hadn’t really occurred until that point, but busyness and reminding myself that “hey- you’re in Buenos Aires” definitely keep me going.

bikes and beauty

Monday provided quite the experience: urban biking to El Tigre. This was an activity with the program so I thought- ok- this would be legit and safe. Uh-uh. We first risked our lives merely crossing the streets of BA on bikes either too big or too small for us, then boarded a train in an extremely sketchy train station… bikes, helmets, and all. Finally we got off in a tiny suburb to bike our little hearts out. Well, my little heart was much biked out when large droplets started to fall from the sky… and continued for the entire day. Ok- enough complaining. It was cold, but we had a lot of fun. We finished at El Tigre and boarded a luxurious little boat (with heat!) and sailed throughout the “Eye”lands of the Tiger (pun intended). After all the day’s festivities, I lugged my cold and sore body home for a relaxing evening.

Tuesday and Wednesday, attended classes as per usual. On Wednesday night, we had salsa lessons at a local club and celebrated a few birthdays afterward. After classes on Thursday, we went to see Sex and the City (the day of its Argentine premiere), and left happy but longing for that American life. After that, I went to see Rent in Spanish—what an interesting experience… “quiniento venticinco mil seiscientos minutos” is certainly a mouthful- but they pulled it off beautifully! On Friday we attended class, but my mind was already on our big trip to Iguazu Falls!

The bus ride was incredible in and of itself—luxury seats, wine, champagne, videos, and comfy blankets—so the sixteen hour ride passed by quickly. We arrived around 3 PM and set out to plan our day. After a delectable dinner we settled in early for our visit to “las cataratas” the next day! We woke up early and took a bus to the park. After a safari ride through the jungle (which was actually not as cool as it sounds), we boarded a boat and rode to the falls. After getting completely soaked (I felt like I was transported back to the days of Busch Gardens’ Roman Rapids) , we walked around to the various falls and witnessed to the ethereal beauty of each view. Probably one of the most beautiful things I will ever see… Around 2 we headed back and boarded our bus for another luxurious and fast trip home. What a weekend! Today- 21^st birthday festivities!

A few observations on Argentines:

• · Their Sweet and Low reproduction tastes terrible
• · They are robots--- stay out until 5 AM, go to work at 8, repeat
• · Everyone here is gorgeous, skinny, and eats only empanadas and pizza
• · They listen to mostly American music ( oftentimes the bad kind)
• · If you have a meeting, add a half hour and show up then
• · They love to sing—whether listening to their ipod on the street or in the comfort of their homes
• · Style is essential- it’s easy to tell those who aren’t Argentina per what they’re wearing
• · Never use the bathroom—and somehow leave sans using toilet paper
• · drink mucho café
• · Are very forward- no matter what the occasion
• · Love to dance—tango, hip hop, reggae, Beatles cover bands
• · Love martial arts
• · Laugh at Americans
• · Love the thought of starbucks—there was a THIRTY minute line for a brand new one
• · Protest a lot
• · LOVE futbol
• · Are terrible waiters (you must absolutely demand service)

So yes, I have learned a lot about Argentinians. And keep learning more everyday.

We have three classes everyday (Spanish from 9-10:30, Argentine Literature from 11-12:30, and Argentine History from 1:30-3). Classes are a challenge due to our rapidly-speaking profesores, but are easy regarding homework and actual grades. We eat at local cafes everyday for lunch, then usually head off to explore the city after classes.

On Tuesday we explored the area after class, went shopping a bit, had coffee with a friend in the city, then ended the day with a glass of wine at a local restaurant. Wednesday afternoon comprised of a trip to Recoleta for some shopping and later a visit to a bar called Acatraz to watch the huge futbol game (La Boca, one of the many teams from Buenos Aires was playing). The bar contains the regular bar and a bowling alley—so, as typical Americans we bowled while the bar was filled with loud shouts and roots for La Boca. I’ve truly never witnessed such avid and dedicated fans – they loveee their futbol!

Thursday after class we went to the famous Recoleta cemetery (where Evita is buried) and walked around the surrounding areas—near the Facultad de Medicinas and this crazy flower sculpture that opens and closes with the sun. We then ate dinner with our program at the famous pizza restaurant Los Inmortales and proceeded home after a tiring day.

On Friday we went to purchase our tickets to Iguazú after class then proceeded out for dinner and our tango lessons! So I thought I learned the salsa… tango can’t be that different! My, was I wrong! After an evening of much clumsiness, we went out on the town and returned at app. 5:30 AM!

On Saturday, we woke up late and walked to the Japanese Gardens for some sushi and a bit of a different culture. We then headed to the famous Caminito- where the houses are painted with vibrant colors and vendors pave the streets. At dinner a couple danced the tango for us, and we joined the rest of our program for a musical in the area. We then headed out for another night on the town!

Sunday- I decided it would be good to experience a Catholic mass in el Catedral on the Plaza de Mayo. After mass we walked the streets of San Telmo for the feria—music groups, vendors, painters, performers, and the like lined the blocked-off streets for an afternoon of fun and celebration of Buenos Aires. Tomorrow we’re going biking in el Tigre and kayaking el Rio de la Plata. What an action-packed first week it has been! So far I have been so grateful to the program, the incredible people on the trip, my host family and their generosity, and the vibrant life of the city. There’s always something to do and so many cultural aspects to experience. It’s safe to say I’m falling in love with the city.

BA

The first few days in Buenos Aires were spent adjusting to city life, living in a very hipster hostel, and exploring the surrounding area of Palermo. Coincidentally, both Sara and I were placed in the same apartment building and in the same area of Palermo as our hostel! The first day after a bit of a nap, Sara and I hit the streets shopping in order to catch up to the stylish porteños after our initial feelings of fashion inadequacy. We finished the night sitting in a relaxing and comfortable restaurant listening to jazz music and sipping wine. The next day consisted of a lot of walking through and glancing upon the beauty that is Buenos Aires (especially this park randomly filled with cats). After an early night in and lots of sleep, we were certainly ready to join the rest of our crew the next day and meet our host families!

We met the ground in a fancy hotel in Recoleta (a more NYC-esque area of town), took some Spanish tests and ate far too much food than necessary. We then proceeded to meet our host families! Mi madre is Ana Maria Vacas. She has four sons (two of whom live with me) whose names are Facundo and Sebastian (12 and 18 years old respectively). They have been wonderful… they’ve had so much patience with my stuttering Spanish and have treated me with the utmost respect and adoration. That night was spent getting to know my family and having a much-needed rest!

The next morning we departed early for Elevage (a Pottery Barn-esque retreat center set about an hour outside of Buenos Aires). We spent the weekend getting to know each other, being “oriented” to the program, and basking in our beautiful surroundings. Yes, we played lame games and yes, I enjoyed them. We returned tired, extremely well-fed (imagine 3 course meals for every meal plus the occasional merienda), and excited about the ensuing program.

This morning was spent buying a camera (since mine was stolen in the airport… grrrr), fixing my cell phone problems, and running random errands with Sara. We then joined our neighbor Katie and the rest of our program and took a historic tour of the city (basically the postcard sites). After our informative tour we ate at an antique bar, went shopping en la calle Florida, and returned to our respective host families. I was greeted by the song of “Feliz Cumpleaños a Facundo”… it was my host brother’s 12^th birthday! After some delicious quiche and cake, the family settled down and I departed for an internet cafe! Tomorrow- classes start. Yikes!

Rest of Cusco

After a good night’s sleep, Sara and I had a leisurely day of shopping, museum touring, and eating delicious food. The day’s destinations included Museum of the Inca, el Catedral en la Plaza de las Armas, and an incredible restaurant called Cicciolina where we indulged in tapas and delicious sandwiches. I have yet to try the two major food groups in Peru: cuy (guinea pig) and alpaca… but it’s doubtful my stomach will allow such consumptions!

That night we headed out on the town and started off with another delectable meal at Incanto. With our bellies stuffed, we went to one of the local discotecas called Ukukus where we listened to Peruvian covers of The Rolling Stones and the like—so funny! We then met up with some new Israeli friends at another discoteca (one of the most popular in Cusco) called Mama Africa. After a night of dancing, Sara and I headed back to our hostel and prepared for another full day of excitement!

We met our group of fellow river-rafters and boarded our bus (whose driver’s abilities were significantly more impressive than any previous one’s… aka I didn’t fear for my life) and drove about an hour outside of Cusco to the Urubamba River. Our rafting experience was pretty normal at first, but we quickly learned our own incapabilities as our raft soon got stuck on a rock, nearly flipped over, and we were forced to evacuate onto the very rock that dictated our fate. I watched as my flip-flops swam down-river away from me…. I suppose they can be my little Peruvian donation. After numerous rescue attempts by other rafts that happened to (thankfully) be following our course, we were saved by a team of guides and steered safely ashore. After a lunch of coca tea, rice, and pasta we headed back to Cusco, a bit more exhausted and shoe-less than before. The night brought little, as we were incredibly tired, more than a good meal of sweet potato gnocchi and sleep! Tomorrow- on to Buenos Aires!

Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu!

We arose early onThursday morn, boarded a tour bus, and headed to the Incan Ruins! We stopped by Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Urubamba, and finally Aguas Calientes. We ended the night relaxing in the Hot Springs and chatting with our fellow hostel-mates. The next morning we arose at 4:40 to see the sunrise at Machu Picchu. It was such a sight-- beyond words. After touring the Incan ruins, we hiked Waynapicchu and stood atop the formidable mountain. The view was, again, awe-inspiring. We headed back to Cusco for a good night's sleep!

segundo dia

Yay! Sara finally arrived! As soon as she unpacked, we embarked on quite the full day! After eating breakfast atop our hostel overlooking las montañas, we traveled to the Mercado right outside our hostel. There was everything from toiletries to ice cream to meat skins to mittens (which I indulged in for app. $3, then we walked up the hill (and the air consequently got thinner and thinner) to the Hilario Medivil museum—where lots of long-necked Virgin Mary’s were featured. After a little shopping and a visit to St. Ignatius’ Iglesia de la Compañia, we overlooked the historic festival de Corpus Christi while sipping Inca Kolas and eating avocado sandwiches at a cute café on the Plaza. The parade was incredible—lots of masked “warriors” dancing to the music of mariachi bands following their trails. After lunch, we headed to the ancient Qorikancha—temple of the sun constructed by Incans and later taken over by the Spaniards and made into a monastery. After a bit more shopping and basking in the beauty of Cusco, we returned to our humble hostel… and rested up for a night of fun, which included a scrumptious dinner, truffles, and drinks at a local pub where we met some famous photographers, the British consul, and many locals. Tomorrow we’re heading to Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu! Hasta luego!

el principio

I have had a love-hate relationship with blogs. My original perceptions of these so called “online journals” were nothing but disgust and horror at the thought of someone broadcasting themselves—thought and emotions—on the internet. I have often thought I had “nothing to blog about” but after more rumination, gosh darnit, I have an interesting story to tell, and especially one for this summer! So here’s my humble attempt at a blog:

Ten years ago, I embarked on my first “big trip” on an airplane by myself to visit my aunt in California. I find it ironic that ten years later, I must call upon that ten-year old independent traveler, and adventure in a land just as unknown as California had been to me then. Gory details: I arrived at the RIC airport at approximately 5:30 AM on Monday morning and all went smoothly. After a ten hour layover in Atlanta, I boarded my next flight to Lima. Lack of sleep overcame me when I departed the flight and realized I had another long layover ahead of me. I went through customs, etc. and waited in front of my gate, striving to keep my eyes open and just read my book. Thankfully I checked my e-mail the first minute I arrived in Lima to learn that my friend Sara’s flight (which was supposed to arrive in Lima a few hours after mine) was cancelled and she wouldn’t be joining me until Wednesday morning! ARGH I’m stuck in this airport, and finally fears of being alone overwhelmed me. But “bastante” complaining.

After calming myself down with the comfort of Starbucks, I felt much better with every interaction I had with a Peruvian. They are all smiles and warm hearts—some o f the nicest people I’ve ever met! My taxi driver regaled me with stories of his life travels and the seňora at my hostel did nothing but take care of me, understanding that it was scary to be alone.

After a good nap, I headed toward the Plaza de las Armas and took care of some business at our travel agency, and sat, for the first time EVER, by myself in a restaurant and drank café, ate CHICKEN (for the first time in four years), and relaxed while I people-watched. After a brisk walk up a very steep hill (the air is SO THIN here—I was so out of breath!), I had one of the most gorgeous views—of the mountains and casa-covered hills. I passed an alpaca on the road and shopped in a few stores. All in all, WHAT a crazy few days it’s been, but it excites me that this is just the start of my adventures!

I’ll have you know, in no way, shape, or form, do I expect ANYONE to read all of this—I’ve been that girl to delete my friends’ study abroad e-mails, etc. But it is exciting to document one’s travels in this new, hip blog-fashion.