And oh what a fun 21st birthday it was! Rather chill, but decidedly fun. We first met at a local Mexican restaurant for margaritas and quesadillas then made our way over to one of the most fun bars I’ve ever been to—there were board games galore, colors to tease the senses, and much sangria to abound. It was a huge success!

Some highlights from the week:

· Visit to the Museo de Bellas Artes—a collection of European (Degas, Monet, Renault), modern (Pollack, Kandinsky), Latin American (Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera), and many Argentine artists. There was also en exceptional Korean exhibit of photography and media art—very cool takes on Korean nationalism and their views of America.

· A rally in the Plaza de Mayo for Cristina Kirchner. Farmers have been rioting against “unfair” taxes and forcing authorities to close certain roads (which in turn prevents certain forms of transportation from traveling…). Finally, Cristina called for a united front- and let me tell you, it was united. I’ve never seen so many banners, flags, and rioting people in a plaza. See “Evita” if you need an image.

· Watching the Brazil vs. Argentina game at a local bar—or I could just say watching the locals cheer on their national team.

· Sitting and writing a paper on the stage of a theater-turned bookstore called Ataneo

· Visit to the MALBA (Museo of Arte Latinamericano de Buenos Aires) featuring Frida Kahlo, Emilio Pettoruti, and others)- the building itself is a marvel

· Boliches, some more late nights

· More schoolwork than usual (I guess they have to make us learn stuff at some point…)

I must admit that I superbly missed family and friends on my birthday—I think this was my first without my mother! Feelings of homesickness hadn’t really occurred until that point, but busyness and reminding myself that “hey- you’re in Buenos Aires” definitely keep me going.

bikes and beauty

Monday provided quite the experience: urban biking to El Tigre. This was an activity with the program so I thought- ok- this would be legit and safe. Uh-uh. We first risked our lives merely crossing the streets of BA on bikes either too big or too small for us, then boarded a train in an extremely sketchy train station… bikes, helmets, and all. Finally we got off in a tiny suburb to bike our little hearts out. Well, my little heart was much biked out when large droplets started to fall from the sky… and continued for the entire day. Ok- enough complaining. It was cold, but we had a lot of fun. We finished at El Tigre and boarded a luxurious little boat (with heat!) and sailed throughout the “Eye”lands of the Tiger (pun intended). After all the day’s festivities, I lugged my cold and sore body home for a relaxing evening.

Tuesday and Wednesday, attended classes as per usual. On Wednesday night, we had salsa lessons at a local club and celebrated a few birthdays afterward. After classes on Thursday, we went to see Sex and the City (the day of its Argentine premiere), and left happy but longing for that American life. After that, I went to see Rent in Spanish—what an interesting experience… “quiniento venticinco mil seiscientos minutos” is certainly a mouthful- but they pulled it off beautifully! On Friday we attended class, but my mind was already on our big trip to Iguazu Falls!

The bus ride was incredible in and of itself—luxury seats, wine, champagne, videos, and comfy blankets—so the sixteen hour ride passed by quickly. We arrived around 3 PM and set out to plan our day. After a delectable dinner we settled in early for our visit to “las cataratas” the next day! We woke up early and took a bus to the park. After a safari ride through the jungle (which was actually not as cool as it sounds), we boarded a boat and rode to the falls. After getting completely soaked (I felt like I was transported back to the days of Busch Gardens’ Roman Rapids) , we walked around to the various falls and witnessed to the ethereal beauty of each view. Probably one of the most beautiful things I will ever see… Around 2 we headed back and boarded our bus for another luxurious and fast trip home. What a weekend! Today- 21^st birthday festivities!

A few observations on Argentines:

• · Their Sweet and Low reproduction tastes terrible
• · They are robots--- stay out until 5 AM, go to work at 8, repeat
• · Everyone here is gorgeous, skinny, and eats only empanadas and pizza
• · They listen to mostly American music ( oftentimes the bad kind)
• · If you have a meeting, add a half hour and show up then
• · They love to sing—whether listening to their ipod on the street or in the comfort of their homes
• · Style is essential- it’s easy to tell those who aren’t Argentina per what they’re wearing
• · Never use the bathroom—and somehow leave sans using toilet paper
• · drink mucho café
• · Are very forward- no matter what the occasion
• · Love to dance—tango, hip hop, reggae, Beatles cover bands
• · Love martial arts
• · Laugh at Americans
• · Love the thought of starbucks—there was a THIRTY minute line for a brand new one
• · Protest a lot
• · LOVE futbol
• · Are terrible waiters (you must absolutely demand service)

So yes, I have learned a lot about Argentinians. And keep learning more everyday.

We have three classes everyday (Spanish from 9-10:30, Argentine Literature from 11-12:30, and Argentine History from 1:30-3). Classes are a challenge due to our rapidly-speaking profesores, but are easy regarding homework and actual grades. We eat at local cafes everyday for lunch, then usually head off to explore the city after classes.

On Tuesday we explored the area after class, went shopping a bit, had coffee with a friend in the city, then ended the day with a glass of wine at a local restaurant. Wednesday afternoon comprised of a trip to Recoleta for some shopping and later a visit to a bar called Acatraz to watch the huge futbol game (La Boca, one of the many teams from Buenos Aires was playing). The bar contains the regular bar and a bowling alley—so, as typical Americans we bowled while the bar was filled with loud shouts and roots for La Boca. I’ve truly never witnessed such avid and dedicated fans – they loveee their futbol!

Thursday after class we went to the famous Recoleta cemetery (where Evita is buried) and walked around the surrounding areas—near the Facultad de Medicinas and this crazy flower sculpture that opens and closes with the sun. We then ate dinner with our program at the famous pizza restaurant Los Inmortales and proceeded home after a tiring day.

On Friday we went to purchase our tickets to Iguazú after class then proceeded out for dinner and our tango lessons! So I thought I learned the salsa… tango can’t be that different! My, was I wrong! After an evening of much clumsiness, we went out on the town and returned at app. 5:30 AM!

On Saturday, we woke up late and walked to the Japanese Gardens for some sushi and a bit of a different culture. We then headed to the famous Caminito- where the houses are painted with vibrant colors and vendors pave the streets. At dinner a couple danced the tango for us, and we joined the rest of our program for a musical in the area. We then headed out for another night on the town!

Sunday- I decided it would be good to experience a Catholic mass in el Catedral on the Plaza de Mayo. After mass we walked the streets of San Telmo for the feria—music groups, vendors, painters, performers, and the like lined the blocked-off streets for an afternoon of fun and celebration of Buenos Aires. Tomorrow we’re going biking in el Tigre and kayaking el Rio de la Plata. What an action-packed first week it has been! So far I have been so grateful to the program, the incredible people on the trip, my host family and their generosity, and the vibrant life of the city. There’s always something to do and so many cultural aspects to experience. It’s safe to say I’m falling in love with the city.

BA

The first few days in Buenos Aires were spent adjusting to city life, living in a very hipster hostel, and exploring the surrounding area of Palermo. Coincidentally, both Sara and I were placed in the same apartment building and in the same area of Palermo as our hostel! The first day after a bit of a nap, Sara and I hit the streets shopping in order to catch up to the stylish porteños after our initial feelings of fashion inadequacy. We finished the night sitting in a relaxing and comfortable restaurant listening to jazz music and sipping wine. The next day consisted of a lot of walking through and glancing upon the beauty that is Buenos Aires (especially this park randomly filled with cats). After an early night in and lots of sleep, we were certainly ready to join the rest of our crew the next day and meet our host families!

We met the ground in a fancy hotel in Recoleta (a more NYC-esque area of town), took some Spanish tests and ate far too much food than necessary. We then proceeded to meet our host families! Mi madre is Ana Maria Vacas. She has four sons (two of whom live with me) whose names are Facundo and Sebastian (12 and 18 years old respectively). They have been wonderful… they’ve had so much patience with my stuttering Spanish and have treated me with the utmost respect and adoration. That night was spent getting to know my family and having a much-needed rest!

The next morning we departed early for Elevage (a Pottery Barn-esque retreat center set about an hour outside of Buenos Aires). We spent the weekend getting to know each other, being “oriented” to the program, and basking in our beautiful surroundings. Yes, we played lame games and yes, I enjoyed them. We returned tired, extremely well-fed (imagine 3 course meals for every meal plus the occasional merienda), and excited about the ensuing program.

This morning was spent buying a camera (since mine was stolen in the airport… grrrr), fixing my cell phone problems, and running random errands with Sara. We then joined our neighbor Katie and the rest of our program and took a historic tour of the city (basically the postcard sites). After our informative tour we ate at an antique bar, went shopping en la calle Florida, and returned to our respective host families. I was greeted by the song of “Feliz Cumpleaños a Facundo”… it was my host brother’s 12^th birthday! After some delicious quiche and cake, the family settled down and I departed for an internet cafe! Tomorrow- classes start. Yikes!